Étretat Cliffs
The arch, the needle and the chapel
1h30 from the gîte, Étretat is one of the most photographed landscapes in France. Its white chalk cliffs sculpted by the sea — with their natural arches, needle and clifftop chapel — inspired Monet, Maupassant and Courbet. They also provided Maurice Leblanc with the setting for his famous novel The Hollow Needle, in which Arsène Lupin conceals an ancient treasure here. The spectacle remains breathtaking.
The cliffs
La Falaise d’Aval (south) — the most famous. The Porte d’Aval is the great natural arch that spans the sea, and just beyond it rises l’Aiguille — a 70-metre chalk pinnacle standing alone in the waves. The climb above the Porte d’Aval offers the most iconic panorama: the arch below, the needle in the distance, the pebble beach and the town behind. Allow 30 minutes from the beach.
La Falaise d’Amont (north) — a path climbs from the beach to the Porte d’Amont, another arch carved into the cliff, and the Chapelle Notre-Dame de la Garde, perched on the clifftop edge. Inside, maritime votive offerings and a sweeping view over the village. Beside the chapel, the Nungesser and Coli Memorial honours the two aviators who disappeared over the Atlantic in 1927 during their attempt to cross it.
La Manneporte — the largest of Étretat’s arches, accessible only at low tide on foot from the beach below Porte d’Aval, or by kayak. Its colossal scale and height (20 m) make it a sight in its own right. Check tide times before setting out.
What else to do?
The Jardins d’Étretat — the former villa of actress Thébault, transformed into a contemporary art garden by Russian landscape designer Alexandre Grivko. Perched above the Falaise d’Aval, these sculptural gardens command breathtaking views over the cliffs and sea. Open April to November. Paid admission; advance booking recommended in season.
Kayaking and boat trips — the most spectacular way to see the arches is from the sea. Sea kayak hire companies offer guided excursions under the arches in summer. An unforgettable experience that produces photographs impossible to take from the land.
The pebble beach — Étretat’s beach is made of smooth rounded pebbles, typical of the Alabaster Coast. No sand, but ideal for sunbathing with the cliffs as a backdrop. The water is cool but swimming is supervised in summer.
The village — beyond the cliffs, the town centre deserves a stroll. The 19th-century covered market hall, a few typical lanes and the seafront restaurants serving fresh seafood make a perfect lunch stop before or after the walk.
When to go?
Early morning (before 9am) — the best time to avoid crowds and catch the raking light on the cliffs. In summer, car parks fill up by 10am.
Spring and autumn — fewer visitors, more dramatic light, often a rough sea (ideal for photography).
Weekdays in July–August — Étretat is very popular at weekends. A Tuesday or Wednesday morning is incomparably more pleasant.
Avoid days of very high tides with swell — the beach can be dangerous and access to the arches may be closed.
Paid car park in season (budget €5–10). The village is a short walk from the main car park. The clifftop path is not suitable for pushchairs — a baby carrier is a better option. Do not approach the cliff edge: rockfalls are frequent and falls are fatal.