Houlgate
Beach, Belle Époque villas and the Vaches Noires cliffs
Just 20 minutes from the gîte, Houlgate is one of the most charming seaside resorts on the Norman coast. Less glamorous than Deauville, more family-friendly than Cabourg, it has kept the quiet elegance of the Belle Époque: 19th-century brick and timber-framed villas step up the hillside above a long sandy beach.
What to visit?
The main beach — wide and gently shelving, ideal for families with children. Lifeguards are on duty in season, and the dunes to the north provide sheltered picnic spots out of the wind.
The Vaches Noires cliffs (on foot from the beach) — between Houlgate and Villers-sur-Mer, these dark clay cliffs are a celebrated palaeontological site. At low tide, you can pick up ammonite and belemnite fossils that are 165 million years old. Allow around 1 hour for the round trip from Houlgate beach.
Belle Époque villas — a stroll through the hilly streets of the town centre reveals a remarkable collection of Norman villas with turrets, spires and bow windows. Villa Mon Rêve and Villa des Roches are among the most photographed.
Cabourg (5 min) — the neighbouring town is forever linked to Marcel Proust, who spent every summer there for over twenty years and reimagined it as “Balbec” in In Search of Lost Time. The Grand Hôtel overlooking the sea is worth seeing, as is the boardwalk along the beach.
The market — Houlgate’s market takes place on Tuesday and Friday mornings on Place de la Mairie, with local producers, cheeses and fresh fish.
The Vaches Noires cliffs are only accessible at low tide — check the tide tables before you go. Do not linger at the foot of the cliffs: rockfalls are frequent.